Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.